LVP Flooring Installation
Wood-look planks, waterproof core, click-lock assembly — but the subfloor still has to be flat or you’ll see every flaw through it. Rainwood Construction handles LVP flooring installation with the prep that makes the material last.
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Why LVP Fails — and It’s Never the Plank
LVP is a rigid-core vinyl plank — SPC (stone polymer composite, harder, better for high traffic) or WPC (wood polymer composite, softer underfoot) — with a printed wear layer and a click-lock edge. Waterproof, dimensionally stable, handles kitchens, bathrooms, basements, and entries without swelling. It’s the fastest-growing flooring category for a reason.
But LVP is 5–8mm thick. It floats over the subfloor without fasteners. That means it conforms to whatever is underneath. Screw pops in the plywood show as bumps. Dips in concrete create hollow spots where the click joint flexes and eventually separates. Old adhesive residue from removed flooring creates ridges visible within a week.
Installing LVP flooring is fast once the subfloor is ready. Getting the subfloor ready is the actual job.
Cost to Install LVP Flooring
Cost to install LVP flooring runs $6–13/sq ft. Material: $2–6/sq ft depending on wear layer thickness (12mil budget, 20mil standard, 28mil+ commercial). Labor and prep make up the rest. Clean plywood subfloor: $6–9 installed. Concrete slab needing leveling compound: $9–13.
A 300 sq ft living room over flat plywood: $2,200–3,200. Open-plan main floor (800 sq ft) with transitions to tile in the kitchen and carpet in the bedrooms: $6,000–10,000. The transitions and subfloor prep are where estimates diverge — not the plank itself. Rainwood Construction quotes on-site after checking flatness and moisture.
OUR FLOORING SERVICES
What Rainwood Construction covers for LVP flooring installation projects.
LVP Click-Lock Installation
Floating rigid-core planks over underlayment. The standard LVP flooring install method. Subfloor flatness first: 3/16” tolerance over 10 feet. We self-level concrete and sand or patch plywood to tolerance. Planks racked across the full room before locking — balanced layout, staggered joints minimum 6” offset, no short pieces against visible walls. 1/4” expansion gap at every perimeter.
LVP Installation on Concrete
Installing LVP flooring on concrete requires moisture testing before anything else. Calcium chloride test or relative humidity probe — over 5 lbs/1,000 sq ft or 80% RH means moisture mitigation first. 6-mil poly vapor barrier minimum. Self-leveling compound on uneven slabs. Most basement and slab-on-grade installs fall here.
LVP Over Existing Flooring
LVP can float over vinyl, hardwood, or tile if the surface is flat, well-bonded, and clean. Over carpet: never — carpet isn’t rigid, click joints fail without solid support. Over old vinyl with adhesive residue: depends on how flat it is after scraping. We assess each surface individually.
LVP Flooring Removal & Replacement
Removing LVP flooring is straightforward — click-lock lifts out, glue-down requires scraping. The question is what’s underneath. Old adhesive, damaged underlayment, moisture staining — all need addressing before new material goes down. We demo, assess, prep, then install. Not demo and hope.
Transitions & Trim
T-molding between LVP and tile, reducers stepping down to carpet or lower-profile flooring, flush stairnose at top of stairs, quarter-round at baseboards. Every room connects to another room — transitions done wrong look cheap and catch feet. We match the transition profile to the height difference and secure it properly.
Rainwood also offers interior renovations. Contact us to discuss your project.
COMMON PROBLEMS WE FIX
LVP flooring problems we see on renovation and repair calls.
WHY CHOOSE RAINWOOD CONSTRUCTION?
LVP clicks together fast. That’s the appeal and the risk — fast install tempts skipping prep. Rainwood Construction spends the time on the subfloor so the floor above it stays flat and tight.
- Flatness checked and corrected to 3/16” over 10 feet before any plank goes down
- Moisture tested on every concrete slab — no exceptions
- Full room racked before locking — staggered joints, balanced layout, no short ends at walls
- Transitions spec’d to the actual height difference — not whatever profile is on the truck
10+
Years Experience
We had an excellent experience with them on our sunroom project. The quality of the work was outstanding, they were easy to work with, and they clearly explained each step, the schedule, and key decisions (with various options to help us understand cost) along the way. Communication was solid from start to finish, and the final result looks great. Highly recommend, they are my new go to recommendation when friends ask.
Rainwood construction completed 2 projects in my home recently. The first, which was to add a bar in my family room, which when completed fit so well that it looked like it always belonged there. It came out exactly how we wanted it and we love it. The second project was to completely remodel and modernize my 1955 original kitchen. The kitchen turned out fantastic! It’s light and bright with clean lines exactly how we had envisioned it. The team was polite, competent, hard working and always cleaned up after themselves at the end of the day. They always made sure to ask how I wanted things done when there were options, making suggestions where needed and made sure I was happy with the completion of items along the way. I was very pleased with the quality of the work, plan to use them again in the future and have already recommended them!
Excellent work done ✅ I’m really impressed and looking forward working further. Recommend 👍
Anatoliy and his company, is great person to have a business with!!!
We just remodelled the entire main floor of our house; the scope included changing floors, installing new cabinets including a drop ceiling, added a custom entertainment wall, and fully upgraded the powder room, among other work such as electrical upgrades including an EV plug. We are overall very happy with the work that the team has done, satisfied with the cost, and definitely recommend them to others.
Toli did great work renovating our home and upstairs bathroom. It was a great change.
Our Simple Process
From first contact to final walkthrough, we make siding projects straightforward and stress-free.
Request a Quote
Call or use the form. Tell us what's on the house, roughly when it was built, and what's going on — dents, chalking, water issues.
On-Site Assessment
Moisture meter, visual inspection, probing at windows and transitions. Written report — yours to keep.
Clear Scope & Schedule
Panel gauge, profile, color, trim details, labor breakdown. Most aluminum re-sides run 5–9 working days.
Quality Installation
Tear-off (or overlay if applicable), wall prep, WRB, flashing, panels, trim, cleanup. Walkthrough before closeout.
Ready to Get Started?
Contact us today for a free on-site assessment. We’re here to help protect your home.
Call us now
425-750-1025
Email us
Anatoliy@rainwoodconstruction.com
Visit us
12310 Hwy 99, Everett, WA 98204
Hours
Mon-Fri 9:00 am–6:00 pm, Sat 11:00 am–5:00 pm, Sun Closed
FAQ
The material lasts 40–50 years. What fails is the factory finish — chalking and fading after 15–20 years on sun-exposed elevations. Panels can be repainted with bonding primer and acrylic topcoat for another 10–15 years. Structurally, aluminum outlasts most siding on the market.
For specific applications — yes. Fire rating, salt air resistance, and longevity make it right for coastal homes, wildfire zones, and mid-century restorations. For a typical suburban re-side, fiber cement or vinyl usually makes more sense on cost and curb appeal.
Over flat surfaces with solid sheathing — yes, with furring strips for a true plane. We don’t overlay if there’s any sign of moisture damage underneath. Trapping water behind a new layer is the most expensive mistake in siding.
Standard 0.019″ gauge dents from direct impact — hail, ladders, a kicked soccer ball. Heavier 0.024″ is noticeably more resistant. Foam-backed panels hold up better since the backer supports the face. For high-traffic areas or hail zones, we recommend 0.024″ with insulated backing.