Window Casing
Stock casing from the home center comes in three profiles and none of them match what was original to your house. Rainwood Construction builds and installs window casing trim — interior, exterior, and full surround — milled to your specs or matched to existing profiles throughout the home.
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What Window Casing Actually Does
Window casing isn’t decorative trim that happens to sit around a window. It’s the transition piece between the window jamb and the wall surface — and it has a job. Interior window casing covers the gap between the jamb extension and drywall, locks the jamb in place, and sets the visual line for the room. Exterior window casing seals the joint between the window frame and the siding or sheathing, directing water away from the rough opening. Skip the exterior casing or install it without proper flashing — and moisture finds the framing. That’s a rot repair, not a trim callback.
The distinction between good casing work and average casing work comes down to joints and reveals. A mitered corner on a window casing trim interior looks fine the day it’s installed. Six months later, seasonal wood movement opens the miter — especially in Pacific Northwest homes where humidity swings 30–40% between summer and winter. That’s why we back-glue miters with CA adhesive and pin them, or use cope-and-butt joints on profiles where miters will telegraph. Most homeowners never think about this. They notice when it fails.
Window Casing Pricing
Material choice drives the number more than labor on most casing jobs. MDF casing — primed, ready to paint — runs $1.50–$3.00 per linear foot for the material. Finger-jointed pine sits around $2–$4/LF. Clear pine or poplar for stain-grade work: $3–$7/LF. Once you get into hardwoods like oak, cherry, or walnut, material alone can hit $8–$15/LF depending on the profile width and whether it’s milled custom or sourced from a supplier.
Installed cost for a standard window with casing on three sides (two legs and a head) averages $250–$450 per window in paint-grade MDF or pine. Stain-grade hardwood with a built-up header and apron detail: $400–$800 per window. A whole-house recasing — say 15 windows and 10 doors — runs $8,000–$18,000 depending on profile complexity and whether we’re matching existing trim in other rooms. We quote after measuring on-site because window sizes, jamb depths, and existing conditions vary too much for phone estimates.
OUR WINDOW CASING SERVICES
What Rainwood Construction covers for window and door casing projects.
Interior Window Casing
Paint-grade or stain-grade casing installed around interior window openings. We work with MDF, finger-joint pine, poplar, oak, and custom-milled profiles. Interior window casing trim gets mitered or coped depending on the profile — flat stock miters cleanly, but anything with a deep ogee or backband detail gets a cope on the legs to keep joints tight through seasonal movement. We set reveals with a combination square, not by eye, so every window in the room reads the same.
Exterior Window Casing
PVC, composite (like Azek or Versatex), cedar, or fiber cement trim boards installed at the window-to-siding junction. Exterior window casing takes more abuse than any other trim on the house — direct rain, UV, freeze-thaw. We back-caulk every piece before nailing and run a bead of sealant at the head flashing joint. PVC won't rot, but it expands with heat, so joints need adhesive designed for the material — not construction adhesive, not silicone. Cortex or stainless fasteners only.
Door and Window Casing Packages
Matching door and window casing throughout a room or entire floor. This is where consistency matters. A door with colonial casing next to a window with craftsman casing looks like two different remodels happened five years apart. We mill or source all casing from one run so grain, profile, and dimensions match across every opening.
Custom Milled Profiles
Can't find the casing profile that matches your 1920s bungalow or 1960s split-level? We replicate existing profiles by running samples through a shaper or router table with custom-ground knives. One original piece in decent condition is all we need to pull a profile and reproduce it.
Casing Repair & Replacement
Damaged sections, peeling paint over old MDF that swelled from moisture, split miters, rotted exterior casing at the sill corners. We match existing profiles and blend repairs into the surrounding trim — no full-strip required unless the existing casing is too far gone.
Rainwood also offers interior renovations. Contact us to discuss your project.
See Our Work in Action
Watch how we transform homes with quality siding installation.
COMMON PROBLEMS WE FIX
Issues we see on window casing jobs done by others.
WHY CHOOSE RAINWOOD CONSTRUCTION?
Casing work is finish carpentry, and finish carpentry is where shortcuts show. A 1/32″ gap at a miter reads as a shadow line from across the room. We measure every window jamb individually — they’re never all the same depth, even in new construction — and set consistent reveals on every opening before cutting a single piece.
- Reveals set with a combination square at 3/16" standard, adjusted to match existing trim if we're blending with original work
- All miter joints back-glued with CA adhesive and cross-pinned with 23-gauge pins — no reliance on caulk to hold corners together
- Exterior casing back-caulked and flashed before fastening — water management built in, not added after
- One profile, one material source across the entire project — no mid-job substitutions
10+
Years Experience
We had an excellent experience with them on our sunroom project. The quality of the work was outstanding, they were easy to work with, and they clearly explained each step, the schedule, and key decisions (with various options to help us understand cost) along the way. Communication was solid from start to finish, and the final result looks great. Highly recommend, they are my new go to recommendation when friends ask.
Rainwood construction completed 2 projects in my home recently. The first, which was to add a bar in my family room, which when completed fit so well that it looked like it always belonged there. It came out exactly how we wanted it and we love it. The second project was to completely remodel and modernize my 1955 original kitchen. The kitchen turned out fantastic! It’s light and bright with clean lines exactly how we had envisioned it. The team was polite, competent, hard working and always cleaned up after themselves at the end of the day. They always made sure to ask how I wanted things done when there were options, making suggestions where needed and made sure I was happy with the completion of items along the way. I was very pleased with the quality of the work, plan to use them again in the future and have already recommended them!
Excellent work done ✅ I’m really impressed and looking forward working further. Recommend 👍
Anatoliy and his company, is great person to have a business with!!!
We just remodelled the entire main floor of our house; the scope included changing floors, installing new cabinets including a drop ceiling, added a custom entertainment wall, and fully upgraded the powder room, among other work such as electrical upgrades including an EV plug. We are overall very happy with the work that the team has done, satisfied with the cost, and definitely recommend them to others.
Toli did great work renovating our home and upstairs bathroom. It was a great change.
Our Simple Process
From first contact to final walkthrough, we make siding projects straightforward and stress-free.
Request a Quote
Call or fill out the form. Tell us how many windows, whether it's interior casing, exterior, or both — and if you're matching existing trim elsewhere in the house.
On-Site Assessment
We measure jamb depths, check wall conditions, photograph existing profiles if we're matching, and note any rot or moisture issues at exterior openings. Written scope with details.
Clear Scope & Schedule
Profile selection, material spec (paint-grade vs. stain-grade), finish plan, per-window line items, timeline. Most whole-house casing projects run 3–7 working days.
Installation & Finish
Jamb prep, casing cut and fit, nail and set, fill, caulk interior joints, sand, and prime or finish coat. Final walkthrough before closeout.
Ready to Get Started?
Contact us today for a free on-site assessment. We’re here to help protect your home.
Call us now
425-750-1025
Email us
Anatoliy@rainwoodconstruction.com
Visit us
12310 Hwy 99, Everett, WA 98204
Hours
Mon-Fri 9:00 am–6:00 pm, Sat 11:00 am–5:00 pm, Sun Closed
FAQ
Window casing is the trim that frames a window opening — covering the joint between the window jamb and the surrounding wall. Interior window casing is the visible molding you see from inside the room. Exterior window casing covers the same joint on the outside and serves double duty as a weather seal. The casing definition sounds simple, but the profile, material, and installation method change completely depending on whether it’s inside or outside, paint-grade or stain-grade, new construction or retrofit.
Almost always yes. Door and window casing should match within a room — same profile, same reveal, same material. Mixing profiles makes a space look pieced together. The only exception is when a door gets a more detailed treatment on purpose — a built-up header or plinth blocks at the base — as an intentional accent. Even then, the leg casing should share the same profile as the windows.
It depends on the siding type. On lap siding, exterior window casing trim typically sits on top of the siding with a back-caulk seal. On panel siding or stucco, the casing integrates into the wall plane and may need the siding cut back. Either way, the flashing behind the casing matters more than the casing itself — if the housewrap-to-window connection isn’t right, new trim won’t stop water.
Press on the bottom corners of exterior casing with a screwdriver. Soft wood means rot, and rot doesn’t stop at the visible surface — it’s usually worse behind the casing where moisture sat longest. Interior casing that’s swollen or delaminating at the bottom is typically MDF that got wet. You can spot-replace individual pieces if the rest of the run is solid. If more than a third of the casings in a room are damaged, a full recasing is faster and looks better than patchwork.